Epicuryan: The Rogue Expertise – 06/21/2017


8687 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069

A pair months again Wolfgang Puck opened what is probably going his smallest restaurant. Tucked away in a tough to search out nook of the Pacific Design Heart, The Rogue Expertise serves as a check kitchen with govt cooks from throughout Puck’s international empire coming for week lengthy stints. The area supplies a chance for the cooks to interrupt out of their consolation zones, experiment with flavors and dishes that may not match their day jobs, and alternate concepts with their friends.

When company first enter the check kitchen, they’re greeted by host David Evers who invitations the diners chill out within the comfortably appointed dwelling space whereas he whips up a market-driven cocktail.

Ham and Melon – Mezcal, Melon Ice, Iberico Salt
Our welcome cocktail was impressed by the basic mixture of ham and melon. Utilizing mezcal as the bottom liquor provides the drink a hefty smoke that works effectively with the fatty funk of the salt. The ice dice is constructed from the three kinds of melon juice that has been concentrated by means of the usage of a rotary evaporator. The drink rewards the affected person because the dry woody parts of the mezcal are slowly countered by the addition of ultra-saccarine melon juice.

This was the primary of two snacks the kitchen offered as we sipped our cocktails. The tart crust was surprisingly dense however with a pointed butteriness that performed effectively with the one-two punch of earthiness from the abalone and mushrooms.

Our second morsel was a basic gougere twisted with a dusting of saline nori and ending with lingering onion-y taste from the ramps.

Like most eating places, Rogue presents a wine pairing with their tasting menu however right here it comes with one distinctive characteristic: it is bottomless! Given the meal is restricted to a most of 8 company, it is smart to open a restricted variety of bottles and permit the diners to drink their fill. Whereas this implies lightweights cannot cut up a wine pairing, it does permit diners to get pleasure from their wine with out ensuring to ration it all through a number of programs.

With the snacks and drinks executed with, we got a quick tour of the kitchen earlier than being delivered to a slender kitchen counter the place the cooks whipped up delectable creations proper earlier than our eyes.

The meal kicked off with a bowl of paper skinny slices of uncooked amberjack. The tremendous skinny slices have a markedly softer texture whereas the peppers and peanuts give the dish a spicy Thai-like verve.

Goma Dofu is constructed from sesame paste as a substitute of soy. The ensuing texture is barely firmer than conventional silken tofu with a slight creaminess besides. The usage of sesame provides a slight taste although the tofu nonetheless absorbs loads of taste from its companions, on this case a lightweight savory dashi punctuated with a countervailing acidity from the citrus.

This was arguably my favourite course of the night time and leveraged each a part of the prawn. The physique was served completely cooked in a European-style redolent of butter and pepper. The grilled rice ball had a pleasant little bit of crunchy char and a heady saline funk from prawn innards. The course finishes with a dashi flavored with cherry blossom soy sauce and tinged pink with powdered prawn shells.

The child avocados got here recent from the native farmer’s market. The peerlessly recent creamy avocado has a gentle verdant taste brightened by the pickled twang of the chanterelle and the toasty aroma of the puffed sorghum.

This was one other of the night time’s standouts that includes a base of silky clean creamed corn and a dense nugget of sea urchin roe. A lightweight shaving of 2-year previous cheddar from Fiscalini provides a little bit of nutty pungency to stability the heft of the corn.

The beltfish was one of the visually interesting programs of the night time. The golden brown high seemed harking back to completely toasted bread. The gentle white flesh is fork-tender and a pleasant canvas for the playful BLT significantly the interaction between the tomato and bacon.

The heavier fish course makes use of recent spring substances to create Autumnal vibe. The bottom was a fatty slab of spruce-smoked Sablefish. The aggressive smoke is tempered by marinated grapes designed to style like cranberries. A course of extremes, this was a enjoyable idea, however wanted some refinement.

Subsequent up was a duo of livers. The basic foie terrine had a textbook texture and basic candy fruit to go with the buttery liver. Likewise, the Ankimo was dressed with textbook flavors of candy miso that pair effectively with the aggressive caviar-like salinity of the monkfish liver.

The ultimate savory of the night was a superbly executed A5 New York strip. The seductive pink flesh is threaded with loads of heady fats and sandwiched between two layers of good char. A medley of humble potato salad seasoned with dill and onion serves as a easy simple aspect lets the succulent great thing about the steak shine.

I’ve by no means run throughout an olive oil dessert that I did not love and this was no completely different. The unique perfume of the olive oil is enriched with a multifaceted bouquet of fruit from the jammy apricot to the marginally astringent mulberries.

The ultimate course was a veritable showcase of modernist methods from the versatile ganache to the aerated brioche. Style-wise the chocolate and cherries dominate although the dollops of jellied bourbon end the dish with a pleasant boozy warmth.

First up was a white chocolate bonbon with lemon that tasted uncannily like a lemon starburst. The cone consisted of basic ricotta mascarpone in a dense praline shell dusted with cinnamon. The ultimate candy was a darkish chocolate stuffed with ancho that has an exotically spicy bitterness.

After dinner we retired again to the demo kitchen for glasses of 1992 DRC Marc de Bourgogne brandy and China China and dialog with the Rogue crew and different company earlier than calling it an evening.

Each facet of the Rogue Expertise exudes the eagerness that drove the idea. With a 1-to-1 ratio between diners and company, it appears unlikely that the restaurant will ever flip a revenue, however the area wasn’t designed with such base goals in thoughts. Certainly the Rogue Expertise is a protected area for Wolfgang and his crew to push the boundaries and the ensuing menu is a celebration of that artistic course of.

The Rogue Expertise is barely open three nights every week with 8 seats per night time in order phrase will get out I’ve little doubt it is going to quickly turn out to be one of many metropolis’s hardest tables.



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