Epicuryan: Maude – 11/11/2014

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212 S Beverly Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
(310) 859-3418

This marks my third journey to Maude this yr and it has been one in all my most anticipated meal since I first discovered about it. For individuals who do not know, Maude’s menu relies round a theme ingredient that modifications each month and this month’s ingredient is the always-prized Truffle. Getting a reservation at Maude requires persistence and luck in any month and November was positive to be worse than most. Certainly I known as over 100 occasions with no luck however fortuitously one other of my eating group managed to make it by.

Snack: Cannoli – White Truffle Ricotta, Celeriac, Parmesan
As all the time, the meal at Maude opened with a pair snacks. First up was a mini-cannoli crammed with creamy ricotta spiked with a smooth perfume of white truffle whereas the shell itself was harking back to a tuile each by way of texture and its slight sugary sweetness.

Snack: Pop Tart – Onion, Black Truffle
Our second little chew was an uber-luxe Pop Tart. The chew has a toasty crumbled texture as one would anticipate in addition to a pungent onion sweetness tinged with truffle.

1: Soup – Potato, Kohlrabi, Escarole
Rene Geoffroy, “Empriente,” 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne France 2007
Shifting on to our first course we had been introduced with a verdant cream of kohlrabi and escarole over which our servers poured a hearty cream of potato and truffle soup. The truffles come by clearly within the wealthy brown potage however the bitter nutty restraint of the greens helped mood the combination.

2: Squash Salad – Persimmon, Truffle French dressing, Brown Butter
Occhipinti, “SP68,” Sicilia, Italy 2012
Squash and salad are two of my least favourite phrases in terms of meals so I used to be pleasantly stunned by this course. Neither the squash nor the persimmon had the cloying weight that they so usually convey, as an alternative their muted sweetness was an integral aspect grounding the extra astringent greens and the caramelized savor of the brown butter. The SP68 proved to be the perfect pairing of the evening. By itself the wine has numerous ripe apricot but in addition a whiff of egg-y funk, however when taken with the salad the wine exhibits a bit extra expansive and nuanced character

3: Scallop Crudo – Truffle Soil, Beets, Salsify
Dominio do Bebei, “Lapola,” Ribera Sacra, Spain 2011
The phrases scallop crudo are just about all the time music to my ears. Maude’s rendition is much less a real uncooked preparation as it’s seared on one facet. Although nonetheless uncommon I discovered the feel a contact firmer than I might like, the flavour was an outstanding mixture of saline-sweetness and an ideal praise to the tough crunchy soil of truffle and hazelnut. The pickled salsify was a beautiful addition, bringing a crisp succulent brightness whereas the dollops of beet juice added an intense however brief lived sweetness that complimented the dish properly.

4: Hen Egg – Brioche, Creamed Leek, Alba Truffle
Liquid Farm, “White Hill,” Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, CA 2012
Eggs and truffle are a traditional no brainer, and certainly the silky yolk coupled with the Alba truffles are a factor of magnificence. Nonetheless Chef Stone would not cease there, resting the yolk on a mattress of sentimental creamy leeks and a sprinkled with smoky bits of brioche. The mixture made me consider a truffled bacon vichyssoise and was simply probably the most overtly scrumptious course of the evening.

5: Turbot – Endive, Spinach, Truffle Coulis
Chenu, “Aux Clous,” 1er Cru, Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France 2012
The fish course consisted of a fantastically seared turbot. The flaky white fish is extra full flavored than most preparations particularly with the earthy truffle imparting a smoky relish. In the meantime the tangy verdant mix provides an additional dimension of countervailing flavors.

6a: Hand-Lower Tagliatelle – White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
In a departure from Maude’s regular format, we had been supplied a selection for our pasta course, both tagliatelle or risotto. Naturally we opted to attempt each and share. First up was a really al dente pasta, dressed desk facet with a beneficiant shaving of white truffle and splash of brown butter, pure easy and scrumptious.

6b: Risotto – White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
Truffle risotto has lengthy been one in all my favourite issues on the planet and just like the tagliatelle, the risotto was ready merely actually little greater than a car for having fun with the earthy perfume of the white truffle.

7: Veal Sweetbread – Cauliflower, Sauce Perigord
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
The following course was nearly a savory intermezzo. A single tender morsel of offal-y sweetbread served in a earthy candy sauce produced from cauliflower and black truffle.

8: Venison – Parsnip, Matsutake, Chocolate
B. Levet, “les Journaries,” Côte Rôtie, Rhone, France 2007
The ultimate savory was a fantastically crimson slice of seared venison. The meat is sort of lean exhibiting off a steely character. The parsnip and chocolate assist spherical out the meaty heft however are a bit too candy. The sprig of grilled Matsutake proved to be the crucial aspect due to a woody musk that ties the plate collectively.

9: Teleme – Walnut, Cranberry, Black Truffle
Our cheese was a gentle semi-soft selection that served as a superb medium for the crumbled black truffle. The white truffle honey supplies a brighter floral counterpoint to the weighty black truffle whereas the toast provides a a lot wanted textural distinction.

Intermezzo: Sorbet – Yogurt, Apple, Celery
Our first dessert began as a soothing combination of vibrant inexperienced candied apple and tangy yogurt however the celery infused soup provides a cerebral bitter wrinkle to the combo.

Toffee Cake – Alba Truffle Ice Cream, Raisin, Pomegranite
Boxler, “Sommerberg,” Grand Cru, Riesling Vendages Tardives, Alsace, France 2009
Our formal dessert was a wealthy toffee cake soaked in lemon giving the pastry a in-built restraint. The truffle vanilla ice cream was equally spectacular suffusing the palate with a good truffle and vanilla bouquet.

Mignardises – Palet d’or, White Truffle Truffle, Black Truffle Macaron
Our meal ended with three excellent little treats. The Truffle and Macaron had been straightforwardly scrumptious the place the Palet d’or was a bit extra advanced with a buttery puff pastry distinction to the truffled and chocolate.

As anticipated, Chef Stone delivers as soon as once more, placing collectively a menu showcasing the flexibility and vary of truffles. Some programs comply with traditional approaches that remember the chic musk of the prized fungus whereas others take a extra cerebral strategy utilizing truffles to go with or improve.

Lately an article got here out about Curtis Stone saying that he opened Maude to show he was a chef and never only a TV persona. Judging from my three experiences I’ve to say mission completed!

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