I used to be flying fully blind after I deliberate my first San’in itinerary. It was early 2019; I’d seen the area marketed (masterfully, I’d add, as “the true Japan”) someplace on-line and had felt instantly compelled to throw a visit collectively.
Since then, issues have improved barely, albeit largely due—sure, I’m patting myself on the again—to content material I’ve produced on this web site. I’ve additionally directed dozens of my personal journey planning shoppers to San’in, to common awe and delight (their phrases; I’m not congratulating myself twice in a single paragraph!).
And but as a result of this genuine nook (whose Japanese identify 山陰 actually incorporates the “yin” of yin-and-yang) of Japan lacks a Shinkansen connection (and apparently a PR division, other than yours really), it stays delightfully freed from crowds and chaos. Right here’s what it’s worthwhile to learn about exploring Japan’s San’in Coast.
Why San’in Has At all times Had My Coronary heart
The primary second I set foot within the San’in area, I knew I’d made the primary resolution. Really, it wasn’t my “first” second there. You see, after I arrived in Tottori in Might 2019 for my “huge” San’in journey, it was having beforehand been there (to Tottori Metropolis, and the Sand Dunes) in 2014, the literal first time I traveled in Japan. Nonetheless, being again in San’in felt proper, from the heat I felt sitting down at an extraordinary kaitenzushi counter in an nameless a part of city, to climbing up the Tottori Fort Ruins at night time, fully alone.
With the potential exception of Tohoku, no different area Japan has felt as constantly proper to me as San’in. This has been true whether or not it was my first journey and I used to be photographing wild horses within the Oki Islands, after I took a sakura season street journey by Yamaguchi and made a number of new buddies on my means as much as a viewpoint over the Samurai city of Hagi and even after I returned to Matsue in autumn simply to see its fortress amid the momiji.
The place to Go within the San’in Area
Tottori and its Sand Dunes
Tottori is the “closest” prefecture of the San’in area to a lot of the remainder of Japan, in order that’s the place I’m starting my information. The unhealthy information? There’s not a complete lot else to do in Tottori Metropolis apart from eat, sleep and possibly go to the Tottori Fort Ruins. The excellent news? It’s a handy base for visiting the Tottori Sand Dunes and the close by Uradome Coast, to not point out Kurayoshi and its “harmful” Nageire-do hike. From right here you possibly can head west, whether or not you base your self in Yonago and take a day journey to Sakaiminato port, or keep on the base of Mt. Daisen (even in the event you don’t summit it).
Matsue, Izumo and the Adachi Museum of Artwork
Head even additional west to Shimane prefecture to proceed your San’in coast itinerary. I’m talking, particularly, concerning the massive cities of Matsue (which is house to Lake Shinji and in addition to Matsue Fort, one among simply 12 remaining “unique” castles in Japan) and Izumo, whose namesake Izumo Shrine (one of the crucial sacred anyplace in Japan) eats up a lot of the tourism oxygen there. One other worthwhile vacation spot right here is Yasugi, which is known principally for the superlative Adachi Museum of Artwork, but additionally for the distinctive Yasugibushi efficiency fashion.
The Oki Islands
Both from Matsue or from the aforementioned Sakaiminato port close to Yonago, you possibly can take a high-speed jetfoil ferry to Saigo Port on Dogo Island, the biggest of the Oki Islands. I can say with none exaggeration that this small archipelago is without doubt one of the most genuine locations anyplace in Japan, whether or not you admire landforms such because the Sekiheki Purple Cliff, see wild horses alongside the Kuniga Coast or dine on a number of the freshest and most unpretentious seafood I’ve ever eaten.
Tsuwano, Iwami and the Hagi Samurai district
Persevering with even additional down the San’in Coast takes you to cities like Hagi and Masuda—which, I’ll admit, are past the purpose the place most vacationers run out of time. We’ll begin with Hagi, which is house to one among Japan’s best-preserved Samurai districts, to say nothing of its distinctive botanical profile, the place mikan citrus grows alongside palm timber and sakura. Hagi can be inside day-trip distinction of the charming inland city of Tsuwano (identified, amongst different issues, for the koi carp that swim by its drains) and the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine.
Motonosumi Inari Shrine
One other metropolis within the western a part of the San’in area is Nagato, which is itself considerably unremarkable. Nevertheless, it’s the gateway to Motonosumi Inari Shrine, which is without doubt one of the most picturesque locations anyplace in Japan. Assume crimson variations of the orange gates of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine, however on the ocean. Are you already offered? As a result of I used to be, the very second I found this place.
TIP: When you have a rental automotive and some days at your disposal, you possibly can uncover the remainder of Yamaguchi prefecture previous this level. Some vacationers will take a coastal route, stopping at stunning Tsunoshima island earlier than going “across the bend” to underrated Shimonoseki metropolis, whereas others will journey southward, whether or not meaning stopping at Kintai Bridge close to Hiroshima, or cooling off in Akiyoshido Cave.
How Lengthy Do I Want in San’in?
San’in is a comparatively massive area, made bigger by the relative tedium of getting there, and the truth that it’s additionally sluggish getting round. With this being stated, in the event you simply wished to go to Shimane and Tottori prefecture (as many vacationers do), you may cut up 3-5 days between Tottori Metropolis, Yonago, Matsue and/or Izumo (with day journeys from whichever bases you select) and name it a day.
The place a sprawling San’in area itinerary actually turns into needed is that if A) you propose to incorporate Yamaguchi prefecture (which is so massive tht it spills south into San’yo) and/or B) you wish to incorporate inland locations (corresponding to Tsuwano or the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine) into your journey. In these situations, you’re higher off following my instance from again in 2019, after I spent two full weeks in San’in.
Different FAQ About Visiting Japan’s San’in Area
The place is Japan’s San’in area?
Japan’s San’in area (山陰地方) occupies the northern “half” of the far-western Chūgoku area of Honshu island, which is most well-known for town of Hiroshima (which is on its southern coast). It’s one of many furthest locations you possibly can journey from Tokyo whereas nonetheless be on Honshu island—and it feels prefer it, in essentially the most potential.
What’s so particular concerning the San’in Coast?
The San’in Coast pairs a few of Japan’s most luxurious surroundings with genuine historic townscapes and charming small-to-medium sized cities, however due to its disconnection from Japan’s Shinkansen system, lacks the tourism numbers you’d anticipate for such a vacation spot. This outcomes not solely in an uncrowded journey, however in native people who find themselves comfortable and even grateful to see overseas guests.
How do I get from Tokyo to San’in?
The simplest option to journey from Tokyo to San’in is to fly nonstop from Haneda Airport (HND) to one of many main airports within the San’in area: Tottori (TTJ); Yonago (YGJ); or Izumo (IZO). Alternatively, you possibly can experience a Shinkansen to both Shin-Osaka (for Tottori and Yonago) or Okayama (from Matsue and Izumo) and experience a Restricted Specific practice onward from there.
The Backside Line
With this San’in itinerary, I’ve gifted you the important thing part I lacked after I took my very own first journey to this fascinating nook of Japan. What they are saying concerning the San’in Coast is true: It’s “the true Japan,” with otherworldly landscapes (the Tottori Sand Dunes), beautiful shrines (Izumo’s is possibly the most effective in Japan; Motonosumi Inari is mainly Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari, however on the ocean), intact castles (Kon-nichi-wa, Matsue-jō!) and a lot extra. Even higher? If you rent me to plan your journey by the San’in area (or anyplace else in Japan), my decade-plus of Japan journey expertise ensures a seamless journey that hits each mark.