The east coast of the trendy Tohoku area, Sanriku is part of Japan most foreigners don’t even know exists. Its identify dates from the feudal interval of Japan, when the nation was divided into provinces.
Again then, the three prefectures that now comprise it—Aomori, Iwate and Miyagi—have been the provinces of Rikuo, Rikuchu and Rikuzen. The three “rikus.” San-riku.
Locations, in fact, are greater than their names, and even why they’re named as they’re. And as you’ll see studying by way of my Sanriku Coast itinerary, this place would possibly simply be probably the most genuine, engaging area in Japan.
Sanriku Would possibly Be the Most Genuine Place in Japan
I’ve lengthy mentioned that “overtourism” is a racist, classist fable—in Japan and elsewhere. Nonetheless, if you wish to keep away from all semblance of crowds, Sanriku is a superb place to go. I seen this from my very first journeys to Hachinohe in 2017 (admiring the under-repair Kabushima Shrine with actually no different people in sight) and to Jodogahama Seaside in 2021. How might I be virtually alone at Japan’s most gorgeous shoreline? This newest journey, my most in depth exploration of the coast thus far, was nothing in need of transcendental.
I bear in mind one explicit chapter, the place I occurred upon a patch of untamed irises amid a forest of twisting pine bushes. To 1 aspect, an announcement blared out, warning of a bear sighting. To the opposite, the proprietor of a humble, native shokudo was placing out chum for seagulls in order that the few photographers who have been there might get good pictures. That is the true Japan, I bear in mind pondering, as I plotted the purpose on my nascent Sanriku Coast journey information, and I’m in love.
The place to Go alongside the Sanriku Coast
Hachinohe and the Tanesashi Coast
Hachinohe was the town the place I heard “Sanriku” for the primary time and is, not less than spiritually, the place the coast begins. Mockingly, I discover Kabushima Shrine (which is in Hachinohe Metropolis) to be a bit extra compelling than the Tanesashi Coast simply south of it, regardless that the latter is clearly extra pristine. Whereas in Hachinohe, I extremely suggest touring sake breweries, in addition to the superlative Hasshoku Heart meals market.
Kitayamazaki Cape
The following place you’ll see in your Sanriku Coast journey, assuming you go from north to south, is the Kitayamazaki Coast, in addition to different surroundings across the metropolis of Tanohata. A few of these locations are relatively well-known and developed, such because the Unosu Cliff. Others, such because the Sawajiri Coast are barely on the map. Nonetheless others, just like the half-collapsed Taro Kanko Lodge, are darkish reminders of the tragedy that occurred right here in 2011, however nonetheless obligatory to go to.
Jodogahama and Miyako
If there’s anyplace “well-known” on this decidedly off-the-beaten-path vacation spot, it’s Jodogahama Seaside close to the town of Miyako. Miyako was most likely the worst-hit amongst main cities in Japan in the course of the 2011 tsunami, which makes how intact its middle is all of the extra spectacular. Then again, whereas the Miyako Fish Market may be very a lot value a go to, I do take pleasure in road-tripping southward from Miyako to to metal metropolis of Kamaishi (and its spectacular Daikannon statue), in addition to inland to Ryusendo Cave.
Goishi Coast
Heading additional south to proceed our Sanriku itinerary takes you to the Goishi Coast. On one hand, the surroundings you discover right here isn’t markedly extra spectacular than what you see anyplace else. Then again, each the environment—that is the place the iris/bear story I recounted earlier happened—and the context make it stand out. Specifically, it’s proper up the street from the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum in Rikuzentakata, which might be the most effective single place the place you possibly can study in regards to the nice wave (and those who occurred up to now as effectively).
Ishinomaki and Cat Island
One other haunting (if unhappy) place you will need to go to? Driving southward from Iwate prefecture into Miyagi, the Okawa Elementary College. Previous this level, in fact, it isn’t all tears. In Ishinomaki, which in response to its personal tsunami museum was “a superbly good city” earlier than the tragedy (and nonetheless is), you possibly can geek out the Ishinomori Manga Museum. It’s also possible to take day journeys from right here to cat-filled Tashirojima island, or to Matsushima, often called certainly one of Japan’s “three nice scenic views.”
The place to Base Your self in Sanriku
Many Sanriku Coast lodges depart one thing to be desired, although there are exceptions. Lodge Ragaso, in Tanohata, presents a fantastic view of the encircling shoreline—and, notably, it survived the tsunami. It might use a renovation (or 5), however I really feel sentimentally towards it. Jodogahama Park Lodge, in the meantime, was as soon as a official luxurious resort, and nonetheless has a five-star view regardless that its rooms (and repair) are outdated.
A lot additional down the coast, in Matsushima, Lodge Taikanso presents a fully astonishing view of its namesake landmark. That is significantly helpful for those who suppose you would possibly have the ability to get up for Matsushima’s well-known dawn. Which, as a reminder, happens extraordinarily early in the course of the summer season—I’m speaking about 4 am and even earlier!
Different FAQ About Your Sanriku Coast Journey
Why is it known as Sanriku?
The identify Sanriku derives from the three (san) provinces of Rikuzen, Rikuchu and Rikuo, which correspond roughly to fashionable Miyagi, Iwate and Aomori prefectures. In different phrases, it actually means “three provinces with riku of their names”!
The place is the Sanriku Coast?
The Sanriku Coast includes the east coasts of Aomori, Iwate and Miyagi prefectures within the Tohoku area of northeastern Japan. Within the well-liked creativeness, the Sanriku Coast is thought for having been the a part of Japan worst affected by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami.
Is the Sanriku Coast value visiting?
I don’t exaggerate after I say this: The Sanriku Coast is perhaps probably the most genuine place in Japan, and is actually among the many most pleasurable locations within the nation. You positively gained’t need to take care of crowds of vacationers (overseas or Japanese) as you discover, both, permitting you to get to know the area at your individual tempo.
The Backside Line
I hope my Sanriku Coast itinerary has impressed you to go to this endlessly inspiring coastal area of Japan. Opposite to its fashionable legacy of tragedy, Sanriku has a protracted, wealthy and triumphant historical past to match its panorama, which evokes a classical Japanese portray. If you’re not eating on seafood from one of many solely locations on this planet the place three ocean currents meet, replicate on each this area’s turbulent geologic previous, in addition to the unusual resilience among the many individuals who’ve chosen to reside right here for millennia regardless of it. Carry your Sanriku journey to life if you rent me to plan it.