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3799 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 891-7358
My first go to to Joel Robuchon in early 2008 stays certainly one of my most memorable meals. Since then, I’ve returned to the restaurant twice, however in some way by no means made it subsequent door to take a look at their sister restaurant L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon (other than a fast cease for a $33 slider).
L’Atelier, which interprets to work store is certainly one of 9 such eating places across the globe, a haute cusine chain if you’ll. The eating places are likely to share an identical model with an open kitchen surrounded by a sushi bar like seating association. Likewise the menu is a little more various, that includes a la carte, small tasting parts, prix fixe, and a 10-course menu decouverte.
L’AMUSE-BOUCHE – l’avocat rafraîchi d’une high-quality gelée de pamplemousse à la coriandre
Our amuse actually did its job, tantalizing the palate with contemporary acidity from the grapefruit with a creeping herbaceous bitterness. Tiny flecks of coriander added short-lived pinpricks of spice whereas the avocado introduced a countervailing creaminess to the fragile gelée
LA SAINT-JACQUES – la noix émincée finement à l’hile vierge acidulée
The scallop dish could not be extra totally different from the course served at L’Atelier’s massive brother. There its all about unabashed butter-laden luxurious. This course takes a extra refined method with the alabaster slivers coated in a floral fruity combination of lemon and olive oil brightened with a touch of spice and zesty chives.
LE PIQUILLO – à l’aubergine fumée, ventrêche de thon confit
A riff on a preferred Basque area tapas, this dish drew its inspiration from Spain reasonably than France. The attribute smoky vegetal twang of the pepper takes middle stage. Paper skinny toast factors add a lovely crunch to the dish; a pleasant distinction to the tenderness of the pepper. The tuna was a double-edged sword, on one hand I loved the fish’s oily smack, however the texture was a bit dry.
LES CALAMARES – en salade asperge verts et shimeji sur un riz cuit façon sushi
Effectively ready squid generally is a actual deal with and this lived as much as my lofty expectations. The skinny squid “noodles” convey a refined char-wrapped salinity a pure praise for the packed sushi rice. The salad of contemporary asparagus provides shade each actually and figuratively. Taken collectively the dish had a taste paying homage to Chinese language steamed fish, surprising however not disagreeable.
LE FOIE GRAS – crémeux sous une gelée chaude de poule au curcuma
I did not understand simply how a lot I missed foie gras until I tasted it once more. Truly the rooster broth custard stood by itself; clear and wealthy with a touch of peppery heat and a silky texture paying homage to chawanmushi. The herbs and greens had been fairly efficient as nicely, their austerity serving to to mood the candy buttery richness of the liver.
LE SAINT PIERRE – ravigoté d’une sauce vierge à la citronnelle
The night’s fish course was a dense filet of John Dory. Browned in a lemongrass olive oil, the Dory had loads of complexity and depth of taste. The finely diced tomatoes added a contemporary succulence and salsa-like zest.
LA CAILLE – caramélisée et servie avec une purée de pommes de terre
The primary entree selection is a free vary quail. Whereas the chook had a pleasant supple texture the flavour left a lot to be desired. I used to be anticipating the gaminess of the chook to be heightened with a livery twang from the foie. As an alternative the sticky concentrated darkish sauce stole the present rendering the chook into a particularly gentrified teriyaki rooster.
LA HAMPE – de boeuf en tranches, échalotes confites et shishitos grillés
The hanger steak was much more spectacular than the quail. The meat has a rough meaty grain and a pronounced beefy twang heightened with aromatics from the roasted shallots. The easy preparation and minimal accompaniments enable the steak to face by itself.
LA FRAISE – Sur une légère ganache au citron rafraichie d’un sorbet a la tomet cerise
Our first dessert mixed ripe strawberries and tart lemon with the savory vegetal observe of tomato. The dessert is additional embellished with bits of toasty crunch and subdued herbs; a mix paying homage to a fruity Bloody Mary.
LA CERISE – sablé de cacahuète au chocolat sur une glace à l’Amarena
The ultimate course on the Menu Decouverte draw’s on a basic combination of cherry and chocolate. The ripe cherry is instantly obvious within the type of a succulent fruit tinged with medicinal bitterness. The sablé explodes with nutty relish and supplies a dry crumbly texture to steadiness the cherry ice cream.
As was to be anticipated, L’Atelier lacks the fomality of its 3-star sibling, however nonetheless presents a top-notch eating expertise. The decor at L’Atelier has a extra dynamic and modern than the opulent Parisan condominium subsequent door. Whereas the bar stools aren’t fairly as snug as overstuffed velvet couches, the hustle and bustle of the open kitchen and attractive black/pink decor actually have their charms. Likewise the service at L’Atelier lacks the pomp and solemnity of its massive brother, however that does not imply it is any much less attentive. In actual fact with the server simply throughout the bar, the expertise is way extra interactive and fewer stilted than the prim extra reserved workers at Joel Robuchon.
Service and decor are simply window dressing for the meals and once more L’Atelier feels extra trendy and eccentric. The menu does not have the identical luxurious so do not count on the abundance of truffle or caviar featured on the 16-course Degustation Menu at Joel Robuchon. What L’Atelier does carry to the desk is a lighter menu with extra various taste profile reasonably than the weightier basic French fare subsequent door. Whereas L’Atelier’s sophistication and approach do not fairly attain the 3-star heights of Joel Robuchon, it’s nonetheless one of many higher spots in Las Vegas.
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